Table of Contents
First and foremost, it’s important to understand how urgently you need the suit. If you’ve just remembered that your friend’s wedding is tomorrow or in three days and you have nothing appropriate to wear, your options are limited. You can buy a ready-made suit or opt for what’s called a ready-to-fit suit – a suit designed specifically to be altered to fit the buyer and often with basic tailoring included in the price.
The Reality of Off-the-Rack Fitting
It’s important to note that even a beautifully cut suit will rarely fit your body perfectly off the rack. Statistically, about 25% of men might find a brand whose standard fit suits their build, but since testing every brand is impractical the real odds are much lower. Moreover, suits with cuts likely to fit well are typically more expensive so finding a well-fitting budget suit can be quite a challenge.
If you have time for tailoring adjustments the situation improves, but if time is not a constraint a made-to-measure suit will generally fit better and cost less than a fully tailored ready-made one.
The Importance of Fit and Body Considerations
A made-to-measure suit is a very common and reasonable choice as 90% of a suit’s visual impact comes from how well it fits your body. Even the most luxurious fabrics won’t help if the garment doesn’t fit. Roughly two-thirds of men have some level of asymmetry due to genetics or past sports injuries, but a well-made suit can be created for any body shape.
Below, we’ll frequently refer to the concept of suit formality, but to start with, remember this: a double-breasted jacket will always appear more formal than a comparable single-breasted one and the presence of a waistcoat significantly elevates the perceived refinement of a suit, even if it doesn’t greatly change the price.
We’ll outline the main differences between ready-to-wear suits and custom-made ones, so you can understand what you’re actually paying for and decide which options are truly necessary for you. But first, let’s cover a few aspects that may vary between suits regardless of how they’re made.
Suit Cuts and Silhouettes
The first is the cut.
Classic suits (and their variants like tuxedos or morning coats) are the most formal in terms of cut. They suit most body types and, depending on the styling, can be worn in a wide range of settings.
A slim-fit suit emphasizes the silhouette, works best for slender men and presents a challenge for the tailor in the case of larger body types. It’s slightly less formal and, when paired thoughtfully with accessories, can appear as the wearer’s intentional style choice rather than a formal obligation.
A relaxed fit (with options like hunting, riding or yachting cuts) offers the most comfort and can help disguise figure imperfections. It’s usually worn as leisurewear by those who prefer to remain in a suit even during casual hours.
Materials and Fabric
The second aspect is the material. In the case of very expensive suits, cheap materials are not used, but fabric can still make up a relatively small part of the final production cost. The cheapest suit-grade polyester can be bought in bulk for under 0.5 francs per meter, while branded vicuña wool can cost 10,000 francs per running meter. High-quality wool for a good suit typically starts from 200–300 francs per meter.
Suits containing cotton or linen can be quite good and are generally a bit more affordable than 100% wool, but pure cotton and linen are usually reserved for relaxed-fit suits. Synthetic fibers used in suiting fabrics can be either cheap or expensive – and it’s difficult to tell just by looking. However, all synthetics tend to “not breathe” and give off a shiny, plastic-like sheen that looks cheap to a discerning eye. Cheap synthetics also wear out quickly, especially when used for trousers. In some cases, holes can appear after just two heavy wears.
Low-quality wool feels unpleasant to the touch and also wears out quickly. Good wool is defined by fiber thickness – it should range between 11 and 20 microns. Fabrics in the 17–20 micron range are more abrasion-resistant and better suited for everyday suits. The finer the fiber, the softer it feels, the stronger it is in terms of tensile strength and the more luxurious it looks. As fiber thickness decreases, fabric price increases quickly, while durability drops.
Sellers of low-cost made-to-measure suits often mislead buyers about fabric composition and only the rapid wear or discomfort from wearing reveals the truth. Overall, high-quality blends can be very practical and 100% wool should not be seen as the only path to a good suit.
Color Selection and Formality Rules
The third aspect is color. In classic menswear, a fully black suit should be worn only for your own wedding or someone else’s funeral. For formal events, the suit color should be very dark, but still remain dark grey, dark brown or dark navy.
If the suit is meant for business meetings or events that call for elegance without being strictly formal, grey is the optimal choice. A suit for office use, everyday wear or simply the most versatile option for a wide range of settings is a navy suit. A simple rule: the darker it is, the more formal it looks.
A subtle secondary pattern such as stripes, checks or herringbone is acceptable, though it makes the suit slightly less formal.
Light-colored suits are meant for summer (or warm seasons in hot climates) and are completely unsuitable for formal occasions. Patterned or brightly colored suits are the height of informality and can be used to underline that you choose to wear a suit – not that you’re obligated to.
Evaluating Ready-Made Suit Fit
If you’re buying a ready-made suit, you need to evaluate the fit. The jacket shoulders should end where your arm begins. The sleeves should show 1–2 cm of shirt cuff. The trousers should touch your shoes with a slight break. If the suit restricts your movement, it’s not the right one for you – unless you’re an athletic person used to wearing completely loose clothing. Despite what action films may suggest, it’s uncomfortable to run from terrorists or throw high kicks in a regular suit. In any case, assess how you feel while moving, standing and sitting.
Many flaws in a suit can be fixed at a good tailoring atelier, but it’s always best to consult a tailor beforehand (this can be done using clear photos of the problem areas or, even better, video) to avoid paying more for alterations than you would for a made-to-measure suit. Even a very skilled tailor will rarely be able to achieve the same fit from an off-the-rack garment as from one made specifically to your measurements.
Keep in mind that in a well-made jacket, the collar and lapel lines are often harder to alter than to remake entirely – these areas should fit you perfectly right in the store.
Decorative buttons on the sleeves (with no real buttoning function) are also a sign of a lower-end suit and cannot be corrected affordably after purchase.
Ready-Made Suit Categories and Pricing
The main differences between ready-made suits are outlined in the table below:
| Cheap Asia | Exp Asia | Cheap Europe | Mid Europe | Exp Europe | Lux Europe | Swiss | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Local retail price from, CHF | 7 | 25 | 80 | 200 | 1000 | 3500 | Not existing |
| Price Swiss from, CHF | 100 | 120 | 250 | 500 | 1500 | 5000 | Not existing |
| Cut type | automatic | automatic | automatic | automatic | automatic | automatic | |
| Syntetic in fabric | Fabric basis | Fabric basis | Fabric basis | included | Not included | no | |
| Brands fabric using | no | no | no | rare | partialy | sure | |
| Basic construction | Glue | Glue | Glue | Glue | Glue/cheap canvas | Quality canvas | |
| Syntetic in lining | always | always | always | often | rare | Impossible | |
| Fit quality | Hit or miss | Hit or miss | Hit or miss | Often good | Good | Good | |
| % of perfect fit | <2 | <2 | <2 | ~5 | ~10 | ~15 | |
| Natural buttons | no | no | no | rare | often | Sure | |
| Decorative cuff buttonholes | yes | yes | yes | often | rare | Impossible | |
| Even seams and product lines | Hit or miss | Hit or miss | Hit or miss | Hit or miss | often | Sure | |
| Pattern matching | bad | good | Hit or miss | Good | Very good | Ideal |
* the percentage of perfect fit indicates the share of clients for whom the suit fits perfectly without any alterations – this figure reflects the average for the category
Price vs. Quality Reality Check
It’s important to understand that price is not a reliable indicator of quality. Many sellers take advantage of a customer’s lack of knowledge and may sell a suit at a significantly inflated price, justifying it with claims of “authentic Italian fabrics” or the brand’s country of origin. In Zurich, we’ve seen ready-to-wear suits priced 3–4 times higher than their actual value.
When buying a ready-made suit, always try on the full set. If you’re buying a suit to go with an existing wardrobe, assess how well it pairs with your shirts and accessories and where it fits in the context of what you already own.
The Importance of Proper Measurements
Moving on to made-to-measure suits, it’s important to emphasize one key point: the fit of a custom suit depends heavily on the skill of the person taking your measurements. Of course, even with perfectly taken measurements, a suit can still be poorly made – but with inaccurate measurements, a good result is impossible.
That’s why, when ordering a suit, you should make sure the person measuring you has a deep understanding of garment construction. Many people have asymmetrical limbs – different arm or leg lengths. You can check this easily with the help of a friend. If you do have such asymmetry, be sure to verify that it’s reflected in the tailor’s measurements. If it’s not, it’s a strong sign that you should not order your suit there.
Geographic Considerations in Tailoring
The likelihood of buying a high-quality suit is always greater if it’s made in a country with a deep tradition of tailoring – such as Italy or the United Kingdom. A top-tier suit requires a large number of steps that must be done by hand and these techniques aren’t taught in sewing schools. Mastery of each step can only be passed down by an experienced craftsman who has studied and practiced it for years.
In today’s global world, this knowledge isn’t limited by borders, but it’s still rare to find a tailor or atelier outside these countries capable of producing a truly exceptional suit. That said, unfortunately, low-quality production can also be found even in countries with long-standing tailoring traditions.
Made-to-Measure vs. Bespoke Methods
There are two main methods for creating a custom suit.
Made-to-measure (M2M) is when you try on a sample suit and, after taking your base measurements, the tailor evaluates your body for adjustments to the pattern. In this method, production is usually broken into separate stages and the lower the level of the suit, the fewer options you’ll be offered. However, for luxury M2M suits, the range of options can be virtually unlimited.
Bespoke starts with basic measurements taken by the tailor, followed by multiple fittings of the unfinished garment. The suit is gradually shaped to fit your specific body. A good tailor needs 2 fittings for a standard body type and 3 for a complex one.
The key advantage of bespoke is that even with the most affordable offering, you can often request any detail you like and receive a truly individual garment – though for most buyers, this level of customization is not a priority.
Debunking M2M vs. Bespoke Myths
There are many myths about the profound differences between made-to-measure (M2M) and bespoke suits, often claiming that an individual tailor will always produce a better fit. In reality, assuming equal investment, M2M will generally yield a better result in most cases. The bespoke method requires significantly more labor time and a higher level of tailoring expertise to achieve the same outcome, so it simply cannot be priced the same.
Reaching the level of luxury M2M – where each step is handled by a specialist trained in that specific task – is nearly impossible for a solo tailor or even a small team. The main distinction between bespoke and M2M lies in the cutting method. In bespoke, the tailor draws entirely new patterns for you based on their personal understanding of garment construction. In M2M, your measurements and body specifics are entered into software, which calculates the optimal cut. In high-end M2M, the system offers a huge number of customizable options and the design is fine-tuned by a pattern specialist to achieve the desired result.
Unlike many tailoring processes where automation can lower quality, modern cutting systems calculate and cut fabric with much higher precision than any human can achieve – so there’s no practical advantage to manual cutting.
Of course, the M2M system is designed for producing more standardized suits and garments with many custom options will take significantly longer to make. But a highly skilled tailor capable of producing even a comparable-quality suit is typically booked a year in advance – and still won’t be able to deliver a truly exceptional piece any faster.
Custom Suit Categories and Detailed Comparison
The key differences between custom-made suits tailored to your measurements are shown in the table:
| Cheap Asia | Exp Asia | Cheap Europe | Mid Europe | Exp Europe | Lux Europe | Cheap bespoke | Exp bespoke | Lux bespoke | Swiss bespoke | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Production time (ex.delivery) | 4-7 days | 7-15 days | 2-3 week | 4-8 weeks | 6-12 weeks | 2-6 months | 1-2 months | 3-8 months | 9-18 months | 4-12 months |
| Local retail price from, CHF | 80 | 200 | 600 | 900 | 1600 | 7000 | 1000 | 2500 | 8000 | – |
| Price Swiss from, CHF | 400 | 600 | 900 | 1200 | 2500 | 10000 | 2500 | 5000 | 10000 | 10000 |
| Cut type | automatic | automatic | automatic | automatic | automatic | automatic | automatic | mostly hand | hand | mostly hand |
| Basic construction | Glue | Glue/cheap canvas | Glue | Glue/cheap canvas | Different canvas | Quality canvas | Glue/cheap canvas | Different canvas | Quality canvas | Different canvas |
| Synthetic in fabric | Yes | Often | Yes | Often | Rare | No | Rare | No | No | No |
| Synthetic in canvas | – | Yes | – | Often | Rare | No | Often | Rare | No | Rare |
| Brand fabrics | No | Rare | Partialy | Often | Yes | Sure | Often | Yes | Sure | Sure |
| Natural buttons | No | By order | By order | By order | Often | Sure | By order | Often | Sure | Sure |
| Synthetic in lining | Yes | Yes | Yes | Often | Rare | No | Often | Rare | No | No |
| Thread quality | Low | Low | Low | Good | Good | Perfect | hit or miss | Good | Perfect | Good |
| Decorative cuff buttonholes | Yes | Often | Often | Rare | No | unacceptable | Rare | No | unacceptable | No |
| Decorative lapel buttonhole | Yes | Often | Often | Rare | No | unacceptable | Rare | No | unacceptable | No |
| Fit quality | hit or miss | Good | hit or miss | Good | Good | Ideal | hit or miss | Good | Ideal | Good |
| % of perfect fit | <5 | ~50 | ~30 | ~50 | measures-dependent | measures-dependent | ~50 | tailor-dependent | tailor-dependent | tailor-dependent |
| fit % with proper measures | <10 | ~70 | ~40 | ~70 | ~90 | 100 | ~50 | ~80 | ~90 | ~70 |
| Number of fittings | No | No | No | 1 | 1 | 1 | till 6 | till 3 | till 3 | till 3 |
| Options selection | Narrow | Wide | Narrow | Moderate | Wide | Extensive | Moderate | Wide | Extensive | Wide |
| Even seams and product lines | hit or miss | hit or miss | hit or miss | Rare | Often | Sure | Rare | Often | Sure | Often |
| Pattern matching | Bad | hit or miss | hit or miss | Good | Good | Ideal | hit or miss | Good | Ideal | Good |
| Collar forming | No | No | No | No | Rare | Yes | Rare | Often | Yes | Rare |
| Undercollar felt attachment | No | No | No | No | Rare | Yes | Rare | Often | Yes | Often |
| Collar attachment | No | No | No | No | Rare | Yes | Rare | Often | Yes | Often |
| Lapel forming | No | No | No | No | Rare | Yes | Rare | Often | Yes | Rare |
| Lapel attachment | No | No | No | No | Rare | Yes | Rare | Often | Yes | Often |
| Collar and lapel edge finishing | No | No | Rare | Rare | Often | Yes | Often | Yes | Yes | Often |
| Lining attachment | No | No | No | No | Rare | Yes | Rare | Often | Yes | Often |
| Lining pocket making | No | No | No | No | Rare | Yes | Rare | Often | Yes | Often |
| Canvas construction | No | No | No | No | Rare | Yes | Rare | Often | Yes | Often |
| Chest piece forming | No | No | Rare | Rare | Rare | Yes | Rare | Often | Yes | Often |
| Canvas basting | No | No | No | Rare | Rare | Yes | Rare | Rare | Yes | Rare |
| Shoulder forming | No | No | Rare | Rare | Rare | Yes | Rare | Rare | Yes | Rare |
| Shoulder attachment | No | No | No | Rare | Rare | Yes | Rare | Often | Yes | Often |
| Buttonhole finishing | No | No | No | No | Rare | Yes | Rare | Rare | Yes | Rare |
| Button attachment | No | Rare | Rare | Often | Often | Yes | Often | Often | Yes | Often |
| Pocket jetting | No | No | No | No | Rare | Yes | Rare | Often | Yes | Often |
| Flap pocket attachment | No | No | No | No | Rare | Yes | Rare | Often | Yes | Often |
| Internal pocket finishing | No | No | No | No | Rare | Yes | Rare | Rare | Yes | Rare |
| Waistband execution options | No | No | Rare | Rare | Rare | Yes | Rare | Often | Yes | Often |
| Trouser waistband finishing | No | No | No | No | Rare | Yes | Rare | Rare | Yes | Rare |
| Trouser pleats | No | No | No | No | Rare | Yes | Rare | Rare | Yes | Rare |
| Decorative stitching | No | No | No | No | Often | Yes | Often | Often | Yes | Often |
| Final shaping and pressing | No | No | Rare | Rare | Often | Yes | Often | Yes | Yes | Yes |
| Hem finishing | No | Rare | Rare | Often | Often | Yes | Often | Yes | Yes | Yes |
| Vent finishing | No | No | No | No | Rare | Yes | Rare | Often | Yes | Often |
| Basting removal | No | No | No | Rare | Often | Yes | Often | Yes | Yes | Yes |
* Some details for bespoke and M2M suits can be ordered as hand-sewn elements from Asia or Europe. Therefore, some tailors and factories use inserts made by others – but this is not necessarily a drawback. Such handcrafting exists in Italy as well, where the materials used may vary in quality depending on the specific order.
** Some modern sewing machines can imitate decorative hand stitches, making them difficult to identify for a non-professional.
You should understand that exceptions to this table do exist, but they are too rare to consider in your planning.
Additional Customization Options
There are many options in a suit not previously mentioned that you can choose from and they do not directly depend on the manufacturer. Let’s go through those as well.
- Fabric durability. Traditionally, the most durable are classic Super wool fabrics ranging from 100 to 140. Cashmere, vicuña or natural blends have many positive qualities, but if you plan to wear the suit daily, choose a thick, wear-resistant fabric.
- Fabric feel. This is a key factor for most people, as a pleasant tactile sensation adds confidence in the garment’s quality. Modern finishing techniques vary widely, so be sure to touch the fabric and hold it against yourself to see if it feels right.
- Fabric weight. The denser the fabric, the warmer and more durable it will be. Weight is measured in grams per square meter of single-layer fabric. Summer suits typically use wool up to 200 g/m², spring/autumn fabrics range from 200 to 320 and winter garments are usually over 320. Heat retention also depends on the type of wool used.
- Fabric consistency. High-quality fabric has even thickness throughout. All branded fabrics meet this standard, but cheaper products or counterfeit branded fabrics may have inconsistencies. It’s generally best to avoid uneven fabrics, as they often have questionable composition and poor durability.
- Inner structure (canvas). Suits may have no canvas, a half-canvas or a full canvas. The right inner structure gives the jacket its shape and helps maintain it. Formal suits should always include a canvas.
- Shoulder pads. Again, these are essential in formal jackets. They can vary in stiffness and, in the case of asymmetrical shoulders, can help even out the jacket’s appearance on the body.
- Vents. A jacket may have no vents, a single center vent or double side vents. This choice does not affect formality (except in formalwear like tuxedos), so choose based on comfort and style preference.
- Buttons and placement. Single-breasted jackets typically have 1 to 4 front buttons. Double-breasted styles offer more variation, using buttons both functionally and decoratively. The optimal number of front buttons depends on your body type, so it’s best to consult a designer. Sleeve buttons range from 2 to 4 and can touch or slightly overlap – this is purely a design feature, so choose what you like.
- Decorative lining. An important element for expressing personality. It allows even a conservative jacket to feel less formal. Lining options are limitless and can reflect your individuality. At the highest end, custom-printed linings are sometimes offered. Always compare the lining and outer fabric together before choosing – the wrong combination might clash even if each fabric looks good separately.
- Jacket lining types. Jackets can have full, partial or no lining. In high-end tailoring, the primary goal is structural stability – maintaining shape for years. Such jackets usually feature full canvas and full lining, both to preserve structure and reduce fabric wear.
- Pockets and their placement. Pocket style significantly influences perception. Patch pockets look more casual than welted ones and unusual shapes or placements suggest informality. A skilled designer can use pocket shape and position, along with lapel design, to highlight your physique and create a refined, individual style that stands out while remaining within formal dress codes. Lower-tier suits often have limited pocket options, while premium tailoring allows for fully custom pocket designs. Note: jacket pockets are not meant for heavy items – think train tickets, not wallets. Use them for aesthetics.
Critical Details and Finishing Touches
Here are a few more tips on subtle but important details:
- Lapel style affects how formal a suit appears. Lapel width should be proportional to your body. Narrow lapels occasionally trend, but they often look outdated and cheap within a short time. It’s best to avoid them for long-term wear.
- Buttons are key elements of a suit’s look. On a high-end suit, buttons should be made of natural horn or precious metals, depending on the style. High-quality plastic imitations may pass at first glance but wear down quickly and often break during cleaning.
- Lining quality must match the outer fabric. There’s no point in buying a cashmere suit if it’s lined with synthetic fabric – it undermines the comfort and durability of the garment.
Investment Strategy and Practical Considerations
If you need or can afford multiple suits, always prioritize quality over quantity. A truly high-end suit will look excellent even after 20 years – that old saying about «passing suits down to grandchildren» isn’t just a joke. In contrast, a cheap suit might look worn out within 2–3 months.
When ordering a custom suit, it often makes sense to order an extra pair of trousers or even two. Trousers wear out much faster than jackets and reordering matching ones later may be impossible. Even very expensive fabrics can vary noticeably between batches, so new trousers may not match the original jacket in tone – creating a visual mismatch.
Any competent professional selling you a suit should be able to give you even more detail on the options discussed above. If they can’t even explain the basics you see here, you probably shouldn’t buy a suit from them.
Final Recommendations
Let’s wrap up with the key parameters you should define for yourself before ordering a custom suit:
- If you’re willing to risk that the suit might not fit perfectly, won’t hold its shape for long or won’t be made from the fabric you were promised, you can try ordering an “Asian-made suit.” The main sign of such suits in retail is a price below CHF 600 and incredibly short delivery times. These suits are often promised within two weeks. Mid-range and high-end manufacturers can produce a rush-order suit in that time, but it will cost 2–3 times more than the standard price. If you are comfortable with this level of risk, we offer a measurement-taking service and can point you to such online manufacturers – their prices will be about half of what you’d pay elsewhere.
- If you want an affordable European suit, make sure you’re not getting an Asian product disguised as European. Sellers often promote short delivery times as an advantage – so if you’re quoted two weeks, you know where it’s coming from. In this price range, it’s crucial to verify that the main fabric and lining are natural. The best option is to choose textiles from budget-friendly Italian mills, write down the fabric names or codes and compare swatches to the finished suit. The likelihood of getting synthetic fabric in this segment is high. A good suit should have working sleeve buttonholes. To assess whether your measurements were taken correctly, it’s ideal to first visit a high-end tailor and remember which of your body parts are asymmetrical. This helps you check whether these were accounted for in your final order. We’ve had a client who for thirty years had custom suits made without anyone noticing a 2 cm difference in his arm lengths.
- When buying an expensive suit, unfortunately, it’s also important to ensure you’re not just paying a premium for a subpar product. All the earlier tips still apply. At this level, it’s useful to examine detailed photos – not polished catalog images but real garments – especially of suits with checks or stripes. On suits over CHF 2,000, patterns should align very well. On suits over CHF 4,000, they should align perfectly. Evaluate the symmetry of key elements like pockets, seam joins and the center back seam. If you have any doubts about the quality of your finished suit, feel free to bring it to us. We’ll provide a free, brief consultation on the visible strengths and weaknesses of the piece.
It’s important to understand that the most crucial and expensive part of a suit is what’s inside – and this is often hard to judge from the outside. Sometimes even very costly fabrics are laid over a poorly constructed foundation.
But most importantly, always choose a suit for yourself. It should make you feel confident and beautiful – not just impress others. After all, no matter how perfect a suit is, not everyone will like it – because not everyone has good taste.
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