For men, the comparison with cars should be easy to understand here. There’s the Indian two-seater Tata, which costs 3,500.- in India, and there’s the Bugatti La Voiture Noire, which was bought by a Swiss man for 17,000,000.-. You can use either one to commute to work, visit friends, and even drive to the seaside in Monaco, but there are still differences. And it’s not just because it’s easier to find a parking spot for the Tata.
The production costs for a cheap suit made of synthetic materials and low-cost components, mass-produced in Asian or African countries with low-wage labor, do not exceed 5.-. If you pay 100.-, you’re mainly paying for logistics, advertising, the seller’s administrative costs, customs duties, and local taxes, as well as the profit margin. Usually, but not always, such a suit is poorly tailored, and finding one that fits your figure well is a matter of luck. Even in that case, suits made with low-quality manufacturing techniques won’t hold their shape for long and will soon look more like a sack than a suit.
While a mass-produced suit can be made by a seamstress in just two hours, a high-quality suit requires much more handwork, and a high-quality suit requires between 40 hours (with minimal mechanization, where manual labor does not compromise quality) and 120 hours (for special orders with a large number of complex elements and a very challenging customer’s body type) of work by an experienced tailor. A more standard suit requires 60 hours of manual labor. And that’s just the tailor. On top of that come expensive fabrics, pattern development, finishing, and all the same costs we listed for a cheap suit—but with higher standards and, consequently, higher costs.
This explains why costs vary depending on the place of production. In low-cost European countries, an unknown tailor who is capable of making a good suit charges as little as 9.- per hour, including taxes. For a suit made from the most affordable Super 100 wool fabric with a viscose lining, the cost of fabric and trims starts at 160.-. In total, we pay 520.- for 40 hours of labor and materials.
Now you can check out many offers for yourself. A tailor of this caliber charges as little as 4.- per hour in China, Vietnam, or Thailand. Can you buy a quality suit there for 250.-, including delivery? Obviously not.
For a long time, Italian suits were popular in Switzerland. Italy has, in fact, traditionally produced a large quantity of high-quality fabrics. Historically, it made sense to have quality suits tailored there. Unfortunately, young people in Italy are becoming less and less interested in the hard work of tailoring, and many tailors are retiring without passing on their skills to apprentices. Increasingly, an “Italian suit” in Switzerland is no longer a quality product, but rather a marketing ploy aimed at unsuspecting buyers. The classic “sartorialist” tailors a suit in the standard 60 hours and values his work at at least 30–40 euros per hour, producing no more than three suits per month. The actual wait time for such a specialist ranges from 3 to 18 months. Taking into account the fabric, taxes, and the retail markup, such a suit can be purchased in Switzerland for at least 5,000, but increasingly, even at this price, you’ll be offered nothing more than a bottle of champagne, good Italian fabric, and a familiar name.
For expensive and very expensive suits, an important component of the price is the fabric and the details. Vicuña wool from the most expensive fabric manufacturers can mean that you’ll have to spend 20,000.- just on the suit’s main fabric. Special abrasion-resistant lining fabrics with a high silk content, handmade buttons, and other such “little extras” can cost an additional 1,000.-.
Well, you could say that the hourly wage of an unknown tailor in Switzerland is 45.-/hour, while world-renowned tailors on Savile Row charge up to 100.-/hour—so even if they made me a suit out of vicuña wool, it shouldn’t cost 50,000.. Unfortunately, you’re right. Very often, the high price isn’t due to what you’re getting, but to the brand, the cost of renting a store on Bahnhofstrasse, or the salesperson’s greed.
It’s good that you now understand what determines the price of a good suit. Whether you’re paying for the brand name or local production is a decision each person must make for themselves. After all, if you’ve spent a lot of money not on a beautiful legend but on a good suit, it will always make you feel that way.